Around the world in 80 raves Chapter 9

Images in reverse order

1. Laos view from the bus on the road to Luang Prabang

2. Art school in Luang Prabang

3. Temple art, history in mosaic pictures

4. Making crispbread

5. Weary trekkers

6. Thai toy boys dot com

7. Bamboo rafting

8. Trekkers go home

9. At the waterfall
10. Trekkers

11. waterfall swimming, hi everyone

12. Chris and me in the Rare Earth shop

Chang Mai, Thailand, 12th November 2007

Time is flying, I only have about 2.5 weeks left here in S. E. Asia and it just isn't enough to visit all the places I'd like to see. I will certainly come back again. But that is the future, back to the past again.

I eventually managed to leave Vang Vieng and get on a bus to Luang Prabang, the former capital of Laos, and a small ancient place on the Mekong river, from which I was to catch the slow boat into Thailand. But.... all did not go strictly according to plan.

The road from V V to L P wound up, up, up into the mountains, the views got better and better and better. We stopped for a break at a small village around lunchtime and I tucked into a bread roll. A moment later a large chunk of filling fell from my tooth and with the next bite the rest of the tooth snapped at gum level. No pain as the nerve had been removed long ago, but even so treatment was required. Arriving at L P, I emailed Chris Kausman, my old friend, ex-partner from long ago, Dan's dad, and long term resident of Chang Mai, to make me a dentist appointment. Then I booked myself on a flight from L P to C M for the next day. I was sorry to be missing the boat trip but was very fortunate that such a thing should happen so near a place with a good dentistry reputation, infact many come here on dental treatment holidays and according to Chris even dentists come here to get their teeth done. So I was straightaway the next day to the Dental Hospital, delighted to hear that it was possible to crown the tooth, and am now fitted with a temporary crown awaiting the real thing next Friday. And all for less than 200 euro. Thanks again Angels. Chang Mai is an OK place to be for a few days, I've found a good place to stay with a fantastic swimming pool which I'm making good use of every day. And tomorrow I'm off on a 3 day trek out into the wilds, walking in the jungle, staying in a tribal village, swimming under a waterfall, riding elephants and rafting... sounds like a bit of fun.

Chris Kausman has a very attractive and interesting shop in the night bazaar here called Rare Earth. He deals in antique and old tribal textiles, clothing, silver jewelery and other arts and crafts. It's all very beautiful stuff, awe inspiring in its craft(wo)manship and for collectors of antiquities it's very collectable. I guess it's important that these things are preserved as these crafts along with the lifestyle that they represent are fast changing in our modern world. Some of the work is still produced in the hill tribe villages, but generally the quality and work is not so good or detailed as in years gone by. Some designs are copied for mass production for sale to tourists and of course these sell for a fraction of the price of the geniune items. Generally the young village people now have access to education, and then with exposure to modern communication systems want a "modern" life, many working in cities or in the tourist industry and returning to villages only for highdays and holidays. Most of them do not want to spend hours and hours laboriously making these intricate beautiful things and choose another path and other diversions. Sad it seems that these tribal people are selling off their heritage probably to buy things like motor bikes and other desirables but that seems to be the way it is going in every area. It's much the same reason that all the small little businesses in the villages of Ireland are closing down as we all drive to Lidl andf Tescos and Woodies DIY and Pennys for our shopping and the young people do not want to take on work with no money in it. Wild animals and sensitive plant species, ecosystems, along with minority cultures and languages are all disappearing at speed despite the conservation efforts of concerned academics. Soon these cultures will only exist as show pieces for tourists like rare animals in a zoo, rare plants in botanical gardens. What strange times we live in........a roller coaster to destruction? But as Chris rightly says, we from the developed world have so much, millions of people are still in line for even a light bulb. Who are we to make judgement? I could go on and on but I won't....enough is enough.

16th November 2007

Back from my 3 day trek and feeling very fit and relaxed. What a wonderful time it was. We set off with our guide who called himself Tarzan, 9 kms the first day into the jungle, stopping at waterful number 1 for lunch along the way. It was a tough enough climb up into the mountains to arrive at a Karen hill tribe village where we were to sleep the night in a hut. All along the way there were fascinating examples of jungle nature, anthills like modern architectural structures, wierd and wonderful plants, fruits and flowers. When we stopped Tarzan cooked us a delicous supper of rice and Thai curry and mixed vegetables which certainly hit the spot, and we then sat around a bonfire singing campfire songs and drinking beer and some hot Hungarian liquor courtesy of our 2 Hungarian trekkers, Tom and Magi. Then a sound sleep on the hard floor, well needed rest to prepare for the next day. Day 2 was a much easier walk, through more jungle, another fine lunch at the small farm with a chilled out tribal family and then downhill to arrive at a powerful waterfall for swimming, power shower, more food, drink, song, tunes on my whistle and sleep this time in a cute bamboo room. I slept like a log again and awoke refreshed and ready for more adventures. Day 3 was a shortish walk, to a river, white water bamboo rafting for an hour or so and then elephant riding. The elephant riding people certainly have it sussed on how to earn money from bananas. They sell you bunches of bananas which the elephants have been trained to demand by raising their trunks over their heads. If you don't keep feeding them they just refuse to move. There were raised platforms at intervals along the route which the banana sales lady rushed between on her moped and there was no choice but to keep buying more bananas to fuel the elephant. But it was all fun, I thoroughly enjoyed myself and wanted to go again. But the dentist calls and I must return to have my crown fitted this afternoon. Meanwhile another filling has fallen out of another tooth which is rather convenient really since I'll be at the dentist anyway. If tooth trouble is to happen this is the place.

I was having an interesting chat with Tarzan our trusty guide; a truely nice young man from one of the Karen hill tribe villages, with intelligence and good sense of humour. I asked him what Thai young men felt about all the seedy old white men that you see around the place with beautiful young Thai girlfriends. He said that the Thai men don't like it but just accept it and understand that the girls just want the money. The Thai culture is very unaggressive and accepting at least on the surface. Chris assures me there's more if you scratch that surface and I guess they wouldn't be human if there wasn't. You hardly ever hear a raised voice, everyone seems very calm and laid back and even the dogs are placid and don't bark. Tarzan and came I up with a scheme which certainly tickled him. In the name of equal opportunities and balance between the sexes in the world we decided we should start a business called Thai toy boys dot com. I said I could find plenty of beautiful older women and he said some of his friends would be more than happy to offer their services. After this, from time to time while walking along he would break out into a great chuckle and mumble to himself "Thai toy boys dot com. Ha ha ha" So is there any interest out there girls? Nothing is too expensive here, and the lad's a great cook too.