Around the world in 80 raves Chapter 4

Hanoi Vietnam 14/10/2007

After another two days of buses and trains I've finally arrived in Vietnam and a completely different mindblowing atmosphere. Getting here was a bit gruelling; a 5 hr bus ride from Dali to Kunming, then an overnight sleeper train to a grotty place called Nanning where I had a 14hr wait. It was so hot and humid there, I was tired as I had not slept much and so I booked into a Hotel for the day. That was 9 euro well spent; I slumped in bed watching the English language Chinese television channel most of the day. The Chinese media certainly project a very limited view of life in China, only the bits that they want the world and the people to know about. Lots of websites are blocked and people are mostly kept in the dark I think. I wandered about a bit and the most interesting experience was the funniest scene going on behind a big shop window on a main street. Inside was a row of blow-up plastic kiddy pools, and in each pool floated a very new born baby wearing a rubber ring round the neck, all looking very relaxed as if they were liking the experience. Around the pool sides sat the proud parents, beaming at their babies and then at the crowd of spectators outside the window.

Eventually it was time to board the next overnight sleeper train the Vietnam border. We had to get off the train at 1am for passport and customs control and to change to another train for Hanoi. We arrived eventually at 7am.

I love it here, it's so vibrant and alive. The difference obvious as soon as I crossed the border; hard to pin-point exactly what, the scenery from the train window was still of peasant farming, rice paddys, but the villages are attractive French colonial style buildings and more pleasing to the eye. Hanoi station was seething with people, but for security I yet again found someone to tag along with, this time an English chap called Steve who teaches English in Thailand and is an old time veteran at South East Asia travel and survival. We haggled a free ride to downtown Hanoi to a guest house on a couple of motor bikes (the drivers get commission for bringing customers to the hotels), and also haggled the price down to around 6 euro for a single room for a night. Handy to have someone who knows the ropes. Big bags hoiked up infront on the Hondas and off we set throungh the most incredible motor bike madness you can imagine. Some streets are so full of motor bikes there is literally no space to walk. Crossing the road is not for the faint-hearted. Even when a pedestrian light is green at a crossing the bikes do not stop coming, you just have to walk and somehow the bikes weave around you and most of the time miraculously collisions are avoided, god knows how. I don't yet have the courage to hire one myself and brave the madness. Three or four up on a bike is common, often mum, dad and a couple of kids. Lots of people wear face masks because of the fumes. Would have liked to see this place a few years ago when it was all push bikes. There's tiny narrow streets of tiny shops, workshops, markets etc. people everywhere selling everything imaginable, cooking, eating, playing games, sleeping painting works of art, on the pavements, in the streets, just everywhere. The nearest thing I can compare it to is the trading area at an enormous festival, but here it's every day. It's much easier to e here than China, the alphabet at least is similar and loads of folk have a smattering of English so you can get information easier. The guesthouse is great, comfy room, restaurant, bar, internet friendly people. I can relax more now.

Tomorrow I'm going to the famous Halong Bay to spend a night and two days on a boat cruising about the bay and to do some swimming and kayaking, all meals and everthing incuded for about 35 euro. Then on Wednesday I'm heading further south to a place called Hue on the coast which is reported to be lovely. And then, who knows, maybe into Laos and by boat up the Mekong to Northern Thailand, or maybe further south and round the bend to Cambodia.

I met a young Norwegian lass at the lake yesterday who is doing some volunteering at a school for handicapped kids here in Hanoi. We got chatting about this and that and the state of the world and all and lastnight she came to my guest house with a Swiss Chap who is also valunteering to take me on a Hanoi pub crawl; a fun night out altogether. Tonight they will come again so we can go eat together.

Life is good and I'm feeling great. Love to you all.